Why European retirees are swapping Portugal for Dax on France’s Atlantic coast

For years, Portugal was seen as the dream destination for European retirees.

Lately, attention has unexpectedly shifted back to a smaller town on France’s Atlantic seaboard.

Many older people who once planned to spend their later years in Portugal’s sunshine are now running the numbers again. Rising property prices, the removal of tax perks and uncertainty about long-term quality of life are prompting them to look elsewhere. One place in particular is drawing interest: Dax, a long-established spa town in the Landes department in south-west France.

From tax haven back to the Atlantic coast

For more than a decade, Portugal attracted thousands of European pensioners with an exceptionally favourable tax set-up. Under the so-called “non-habitual resident” status, many were able to receive their pension with little to no tax. Anyone hunting for a flat in the sun could, at the time, find what looked like ideal conditions in Lisbon, Porto or the Algarve.

That model is now far less secure. The special regime is being phased out, newcomers benefit much less than before, and property prices have surged. In many sought-after coastal towns, homes are now priced on a par with major western European cities. For retirees planning around a fixed income, that makes the dream simply unaffordable.

At the same time, a sense of disillusionment has set in. Pressure on health services in some areas, language barriers and higher day-to-day costs have tempered the early enthusiasm. This creates space for alternatives that are closer to home, feel more familiar and offer better value for money.

Dax: sun, close to the sea, and lower prices

Dax sits in south-west France, about a 30-minute drive from the Atlantic coast. The Landes’ famous long sandy beaches are easy to reach, as is the Basque Country with places such as Biarritz. If you want seaside walks without paying to live in an expensive resort town, Dax offers a calmer base.

"Dax combines the atmosphere of a spa town with proximity to the ocean and still-moderate property prices - a mix that suddenly feels highly appealing to many retirees."

Unlike the Basque coastal strip, where prices have risen sharply in recent years, Dax remains noticeably cheaper. Analyses by French property bodies indicate that the price per square metre can be only about half that of in-demand seaside resorts. For anyone selling a city flat to upsize or to move into a more accessible home, Dax often delivers more space for the same money.

Why the property market suits older buyers and renters

• Lower purchase prices: getting onto the market is easier, even with limited savings.
• More affordable rents: those who prefer not to buy can typically find better-value rentals than on the Basque coast.
• Accessible new-builds: in and around Dax, more developments are being built with older residents in mind.
• Less tourist-driven competition: compared with pure holiday hotspots, the market is less speculative.

For retirees, that means the ability to plan for the long term without constant worry about steep rent rises or an overheated market.

A spa town built around health

Dax’s biggest advantage is its water - more precisely, the thermal springs and therapeutic mud for which the town is known across France. Dax is regarded as the country’s most important spa destination. Each year, more than 60,000 people use its thermal baths and specialist facilities, many living with chronic joint or vascular conditions.

Common reasons for treatment include rheumatism, osteoarthritis, back pain and circulation problems. For many visitors, the combination of warm thermal water, mud applications and medical supervision brings relief. For older people who need spa treatments regularly, being based locally is a practical, persuasive benefit.

"Living in Dax means having health services right on your doorstep - instead of having to organise long journeys for every spa course."

Benefits of daily life in a spa town

Day-to-day life in Dax is clearly shaped by health tourism, which brings several advantages for retirees:

• a high concentration of specialist doctors and physiotherapy clinics
• thermal baths and rehabilitation centres with modern facilities
• infrastructure designed for people with reduced mobility
• service options such as transport services, supported living and domestic help

Those coming from central Europe often also feel more comfortable within a familiar-style healthcare environment. Billing processes, documentation and medical standards are similar to what many people know from Germany, Austria or Switzerland.

Quality of life between the Adour, pine forests and the Atlantic

Beyond the medical appeal, Dax offers a relaxed but active way of living. The town lies on the River Adour, which winds gently towards the sea. Walking routes, riverside promenades and small parks make it easy to build daily movement into life - important for anyone who wants to stay active in later years without overdoing it.

The wider Landes area is famous for vast pine forests. Cycling, Nordic walking and gentle hikes are all on the doorstep. And the Atlantic beaches are close enough for anything from a half-day by the sea to a simple winter shoreline stroll.

Add to this the hallmarks of south-west France: weekly markets with local produce, community festivals and a lively club culture. Retirees can make connections quickly, whether through sport sessions aimed at older adults, language classes or cultural associations.

Close enough to larger cities

Dax may not sit in a major metropolitan area, but it is well connected. By train or car, residents can reach Bayonne and Biarritz, and Bordeaux is further out but still accessible. That widens the options for:

• cultural trips and shopping days
• specialist appointments at university hospitals
• visits from children and grandchildren arriving by rail or plane

And compared with many parts of Portugal, Dax is closer to Germany’s border. Anyone wanting to return to their original home regularly will spend less time in planes or cars.

Who benefits most from moving to Dax

Dax will not automatically suit every retiree, but certain groups are especially well placed to benefit from what the area offers:

• Older people with joint or vascular conditions: regular spa treatments can be integrated into everyday life more easily.
• Couples on a limited budget: the cheaper property market can allow a more comfortable flat or a house with a garden.
• People who do not want to move too far from central Europe: cultural and language proximity lowers the barrier to making the leap.
• Active retirees: anyone who enjoys moderate exercise - walking, cycling or swimming - will find ideal conditions.

Prospective movers should also bear in mind that Dax is not a big city. If you want nightlife and constant urban buzz, this is not the right place. Life tends to be quieter and slower-paced - precisely what many value after a long working life.

What future expats should check before they go

Anyone seriously considering a move to Dax should examine several points carefully. This includes tax matters, the legal framework and how health insurance will be covered. Advisory services in Germany and France can help clarify which entitlements remain in place and which forms are required.

A longer trial stay is also sensible. Spending one to three months in a holiday let or furnished rental offers a realistic feel for everyday life: What is the routine like? How do you cope with the climate? How smoothly do interactions with doctors, pharmacies and local authorities work?

If you do not speak French, it is wise to plan at least basic knowledge. Many providers are accustomed to older visitors, but most communication still happens in French. Local language courses can make settling in easier and help you build a social circle faster.

A thermal haven with strong prospects

With its focus on health, moderate tourism and residents in retirement, Dax is on relatively stable footing. The wider trend - European seniors looking beyond the classic emigration destinations and considering new options - is likely to continue. Higher living costs and a degree of post-boom realism are leading many to reassess.

In the coming years, this shift could play in favour of the town in south-west France. Anyone looking for a calm yet well-connected place where health services, the sea and affordable housing come together may well take a closer look at Dax - and perhaps discover it offers more than just warm water and therapeutic mud.